Boston's own TAKKO re-invents late night Ramen

Everyone's talking about it, the latest late-night crazy to hit the city. After hours ramen-based menu's are popping up all across Boston, from Uni to Bondir. This traditional take on the midnight snack has been nothing but a hit with Boston's late-night and industry crowds. With such wholesome nourishment sprouting up left and right for the city's intoxicated night owls, one might ask how the model could possibly be improved upon. Well, Chef Joseph Shretto at TAKKO has somehow found a way.

During the day, TAKKO offers up a deliciously authentic blend of Japanese and Mexican cuisine.  TAKKO introduced it's early morning AM Ramen menu to cater to the city's abundance of late-night industry workers. Shretto explains, "We really wanted to extend a hand (or bowl) to our fellow cooks in the city. Many leave their late night shifts only to return to work in a few short hours. We think of our menu as a sort of 'halfway house' they can escape to for a few hours before getting back to the grind."

The menu didn't come about without it's difficulties. TAKKO had to secure special licensing from the city of Boston in order to operate between the hours of 4:00 and 6:00AM.

"The city was reluctant to allow us to operate that early in the morning. We had to secure a license under the same classification that a soup kitchen or homeless shelter would."


The early hours do increase the homeless population of the restaurant, but the negative effects are nominal. At a glance, one can hardly tell the difference between the smattering of wayward vagrants and industry cooks.

While TAKKO was unable to extend its liquor license into the AM, the menu still offers a variety of beverages, all designed to help keep cooks fresh for their impending morning shifts. Chef Shretto feels as though he's filling a necessary void in the restaurant community. "We're cooking for the cooks." he summarized. Shretto already has plans in the works to organize a Wednesday Industry Brunch Industry Brunch, targeted at the people who cook Industry Brunch on Mondays and Tuesdays.

What About Food Welcomes Our New Sponsor!

What About Food is proud to welcome our newest sponsor, Old Mossy Pooch, Canine Creamery! Located in Flatshill, Vermont, Old Mossy Pooch is Vermont's premiere all dog-cheese creamery. Since 1998, they have been providing the highest quality dogs-milk cheeses to restaurants all over New England. The creamery won Vermont's 2001 Cheese-Fest's award for "Best Dog Cheese" with their Cocker Spaniel/Jack Russel Racclette. We look forward to featuring a number of their productions in this blog, and are excited to be a part of the Old Mossy Pooch family!

Deli's By Dan

More and more, the world of food is making a shift towards smaller, locally produced goods and produce. The era of locally inspired, grown, and manufactured food is finally having it's heyday in kitchens across America. It's no surprise then that the world of kitchen wares is also seeing a new dawn, through the sprouting up of small and specialized businesses. Today we look at one such business, Deli's By Dan.

In 2001, Chef Dan Phillips worked as the sous chef at Malanga, a locally owned and operated vegan muffin shop located in the heart of Brooklyn, New York. A New York native himself, Phillips constantly sought to keep the company's business entirely local, purchasing produce daily from local farmers markets. The restaurant even went so far as to purchase all of its aprons and side towels from Knitterman's, a local producer of hand-knit clothing and accessories. "We were pretty much obsessed with keeping things local," Dan remembers, "...it was really important to us."

It was in 2003, while calling in a Tri-Mark order, that Dan Phillips had a realization that would shape the next decade of his life. "It just broke my heart," Dan lamented, "...imagining ream after ream of plastic wrap, trash bags, and deli-containers being shipped across state lines. Something about it just didn't sit right with me." It was then that Dan resolved to change the face of restaurant-ware production forever.

It was in 2005 that Dan finally got the loan to begin production of Deli's By Dan. The early prototypes were crude, but quality slowly improved. "The model has pretty much remained the same since we started. Our team collects and recycles plastic from all over the Brooklyn area. We bring it back to the garage and melt it down. That's where the artistry really begins."

The Deli's By Dan operation is a small one. At only five employees (Dan included), the operation is about as bare bones as it gets. Phillips' garage serves as the company's headquarters and production site. Dan explains, "Once we get the old bottles back to the garage, we melt them down in a makeshift furnace. It's basically a big metal drum with a fire going in the bottom. From there, Sarah puts on a pair of leather gloves and works her magic."

 Sarah Johnson is Dan's head artisan Deli-Molder. Sarah comes equipped with a Brooklyn Community College Bachelor of Arts Degree in Ceramics. We asked Sarah how she felt about working for Mr. Phillips. "Dan approached me one day while I was walking around campus. To be honest, I had never heard of a deli-container before then. We pretty much just melt down the plastic, then I try to shape them as best I can. Every time they come out a little different, but I guess that's just part of the charm of artisan kitchen-ware production. Sometimes the fumes make me feel a little funny in that little garage," she laughs, "but it just feels so good *cough* knowing that you're a part of a local community of artists and cooks."

Dan says he has no immediate plans to move past deli-containers, but instead to focus on perfecting the current model. The company currently offers three different sizes of deli container. The website describes them as "About a Cup, About a Pint, and About a Quart". They are available for $5, $8, and $10 dollars each, respectively. Phillips reflects on the tradeoffs of artisan production:

"They don't always seal up real good, but at least it's local."

Seven Easy Steps to Nailing Your Stage!

We've all been there. A friend of a friend has agreed to let you stage in their kitchen. Now it's time to live up to the hype; to be the bad-ass cook you were promised to be! Your reputation, as well as the reputation of your connection, is on the line. These Seven Easy Steps will ensure a successful staging experience, and most likely, a new gig!


Step One: Keep Your Cool

keep it cool!

The easiest way to blow a stage is to not connect with the existing crew. The close-knit dynamic a kitchen creates is a delicate thing, and a new face can easily upset the balance. It's important to be yourself and make a great first impression. Don't be afraid to have a drink or two before your stage; nobody likes a stiff-biff! You want to be relaxed and in your comfort zone while cooking in front of strangers. A cocktail at the bar across the street should help take the edge off, making your first day a service to remember!


Step Two: Come Prepared!
Lets face it, an unfamiliar kitchen can be a labyrinth of cabinets and shelving. Ladles, spoons, pans, thermometers, cling wrap; all living in their own specific homes. A new hire might take weeks to finally learn where everything is! When your chef asks you for a shallow six pan, you don't want to waste precious time searching the dish-pit for one, so why not bring your own! The importance of bringing your own equipment to your stage cannot be overstated. Showing up to a stage with your own roll of aluminum foil sends the message that you are prepared for the job.  Many cooks tend to be territorial, and the last thing they want is the new guy using their favorite robot-coup. Bringing your own tools says two things; I am prepared and I respect your space. www.TigerChef.com has a variety of knife-bags available to carry the myriad of tools you'll be bringing to your stage.


Step Three: Know Your Place
The biggest mistake that most young cooks make is being overly-ambitious. Constant questions, observations, and suggestions show a lack of humility and respect. Be cautious of making direct eye contact with your chef, as it may be taken as a sign of disrespect. Keeping your gaze perpetually fixed on the ground will let the current crew know that you are aware of your status as a stage. Try not to speak more strongly than a whisper, and accept any hazing that may ensue. These are all rituals of acceptance. If you do every cook's grunt work yourself, you'll be one of the guys in no time!

Step Four: Be Proud, Be Loud!

The Sizzler in full effect!

No one likes a quiet cook! The best place in the kitchen to assert your rock star attitude is on the six-burner. A stage is like an audition, and this is your chance to shock and awe! Use the percussive nature of cast iron to really make an impression. By slamming pots and pans around the range, you'll be sure to turn heads. This is especially true in open kitchens. Here are a few specialized moves I have cultivated to add a little flair to your own cooking style.  

• The Sizzler- Find the largest saute pan available to you. (Check Step Two, you should have brought your own!) Line the pan with about a half inch of canola oil. Crank the gas up to maximum and wait. After a short period of shimmering and smoking, the pan should ignite in a blaze of glory. This is a great time to cultivate a catch phrase, something exciting to represent your individual flare behind the line. Imaging the excitement on your chef's face when he hears "BOOSH-YADA" and turns to see a four foot high flame coming off his range. That's the kind of excitement he's going to want to add to his kitchen. 

•  The Bonham- If you want to be a rockstar chef, START ACTING LIKE ONE! Never underestimate the percussive power of pots and pans. Pretend you're the Buddy Rich of cast iron! Think of it like "In Da Gadda Da Six-Burner".
•  

Step Five: Look The Part

NOW you're cookin'!

Take a look around any kitchen you walk into. What are the defining physical features that set all the bad-ass cook's apart from the rest? Three things; facial hair, culinary tattoos, hat. Don't have any of these? Well it's a good thing you're reading this before your stage. Facial hair is an easy one. I recommend not shaving for anywhere between one to three weeks prior to your stage. Culinary tattoos can be faked by a decent art-school friend and a sharpie or two. Remember to keep your ink in the culinary vein; a chef's knife or cast iron skillet will be perfect. Nothing expresses your devotion to your craft like a flaming skull wearing a chef's hat. And speaking of hats, did you remember yours? You may be thinking to yourself, "Well of course they all have hats, you're required to wear a hat in a kitchen!". Well my friend, it's that kind of thinking that makes you a stage and me a bona-fide chef.  The hat is about attitude, not loose hair.  Tweed is very much in, baseball caps are out. Try to find something that looks European, or better yet, Scandinavian.

Step Six: Chat Em Up
On a stage, there's no way for the crew to tell if you're the real deal or not unless you let them know. You want your chef to know that you're in the know. A great way clue him in is to talk to him about other chefs and cooking techniques! Don't be afraid to name drop. Spend some time on wiki-pedia familiarizing yourself with some of the following terms:

"Chang"

• "Gordon Ramsay"
• "Sautee"
• "Fennel Pollen"
• "MamaFoku"
• "Brulee"
• "Perforated Hotel Pan"
• "Chang"

Step Seven: Make 'Em Wait
Now that you've nailed your stage, you're guaranteed a job offer in the next few days. This is the most important time, and often most fumbled step by young cooks. DO NOT ANSWER YOUR PHONE. MAKE THEM WAIT. Appearing desperate is a sure fire way to mess up your chances. Calling back to follow up is a definite dish-washing designation. If you're aiming for sous chef or higher, wait at least two weeks before allowing any contact with the restaurant. After the right amount of time has elapsed, feel free to stop by the restaurant non-nonchalantly, as though you were just in the neighborhood and wanted to see what was up. They'll probably ask you to change out and start working on the spot, so be sure to bring the supplies previously mentioned.

Now you're prepared to enter the exciting world of staging. Remember, use the above mentioned tips as guidelines. Feel free to change up and combine any number of rules to suit your particular situation.
Please feel free to pass on my own personal resume to any job leads you might encounter. I will forward it to you upon request to my e-mail address at whataboutfoood@gmail.com . Please. Any lead at all. I need this.

50 Shades of Tumeric

Today we're going to take a look at one of the most under-used, under-utilized, and under-appreciated spices that's found in every kitchen, household and professional, across the country. Tumeric goes by many nicknames, "Puerto Rican Pepper" and "Yellow Salt" come to mind. Many recognize Tumeric only for it's distinctive golden-yellow color, and are unaware of the numerous other uses, culinary and otherwise, that this versatile spice has to offer. Car And Driver magazine recommends a dash of Tumeric to breath new life into old brake pads. Surely this brilliant spice has endless culinary applications. But first, a bit of history...

Plum De Grosal atop a tumeric-rubbed horse

Tumeric was first discovered in 1623 by Europeans exploring South America. Their thirst for golden plunder did not end in the pursuit of precious metals. The earliest written record we have of Tumeric comes from the Spanish explorer Plum de Grosal. In his private logs he wrote;

"This yellow plant grows all across the continent, as a great tumor spreads across the body of a sickly man".
-Plum De Grosal, 1623



Indeed, Tumeric takes its name from Grosal's description, the plant's growth patterns resembling a tumor upon the landscapes of South America. He goes on to explain that the plants were rubbed all over the Spanish horses, as a means of intimidating the Natives. These "golden horses" were often traded for gold. When the Tumeric wore off the horses, the Natives would become infuriated and attack the Europeans, often resulting in their demise. It is for this reason that Tumeric is largely credited as the primary contributor to the genocide of many Native South American tribes.

Back in 2012, we find Tumeric being used in all sorts of dishes; for it's color in Foie Gras, and often as a rub in the process of curing pork. Below I have compiled a wonderful recipe for a Tumeric Terrine:

• 8-10 rashers rindless bacon, plus 2 rashers, diced
• 1 bunch English spinach, leaves removed and washed
• 500g pork mince
• 350g chicken mince
• 6 fresh sage leaves
• 1/2 cup flat-leaf parsley
• 12 cup tumeric
• 1/2 teaspoon allspice
• 50ml brandy or cognac
• 1 egg, lightly beaten
• sour cherries and watercress, tumeric, to serve

Delicate, bold, and yellow.

So the next time you look up at your spice rack, pause a moment longer, and ponder the many
textural, visually pleasing, and aromatic attributes that Tumeric has to offer. You may just be surprised at what Tumeriffic ideas you might come up with!